The Imp Site


a how-to on kingpins

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 18:15:37 +0100 (WET DST)
From: Richard Candler
Subject: Grease

Sorry to be continually asking silly questons, but I'm relatively new to this Imp game (only had mine for 2 months). Anyway, I just wondered how important it is to grease the kingpins and bearings. I haven't done it (I have tried, but the nipple must be blocked because I simply can't force any grease in anywhere. My car has been in storage for 18 years prior to my buying it. How often should these parts be greased?



Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 19:59:21 +0100 (WET DST)
Subject: Re: Grease

It's inevitable .. you will need to replace the king pins and bushes , it's not a bad job , the bushes don't need to be reamed ....
take the chance to reduce vertical end float to a minimum , then there will be no clonking when going over bumps ! I have just done mine and fitted the new type track rods with Fiesta ball joints , it is a delight now , i would check your outer steering ball joints , they are probably stiff too ..

When this is done you will be able to enjoy for the first time the super , positive , accurate and light steering that the Imp was supposed to have !

How often do you grease it ?

You can't grease them too often ... !
every couple of months will keep them free , i use a heavy EP oil .. it fills the lower bush and keeps the water out , this is the one which siezes first ..

nick ...

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 03:23:59 +0100 (WET DST) To: From: "Gary Henderson" Subject: Re: Grease Reply-To:

Hi Richard

What Nick says is probably right, but before doing anything like hard work, try replacing the grease nipples first! Very cheap & easy; if it works it might that whole area save one cycle of dismantle/reassemble which does have a cumulative effect on the life of parts.

Nick, re the EP oil: Some grades of bronze don't like EP oil. (I don't know about Imp kingpin bushes.) The crownwheels of some fine old cars have been destroyed by Hypoy!

My Mk 1 with stainless-steel pins & SKF Glycodur bushes (and as original, with no grease points) is holding up after 20 months so far (and I couldn't score any suitable rubber seals, so I used RTV silicone formed in situ.) The original pins would start corroding via pinholes under the chrome, which swelled the lot. SKF claim that S/s shafts + Glycodur will run dry quite OK, but even better if lubricated with water, ice-cream or w.h.y. So a bit of grease at Day 1 must be a luxury! I couldn't get new thrust-washers either, so it does clonk a bit if it tries to get airborne.

Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 08:43:24 +0100 (WET DST)
From: Gary Harding
Subject: RE: Grease


If you are unable to force grease into the kingpin grease nipples then this usually means that they are full of old dried grease and rust. The usual result will be a seized kingpin in the near future. The only cure that should then be considered is replacement of the kingpin and bushes. The only hope is to remove the grease nipples and check they are not blocked by pumping grease though them while they are off the car. You can also check the vent holes ~2mm in diameter that are on the opposite face to the grease nipples. If they are blocked you can drill them out. I open the vent holes out to 3mm to ensure good grease flow past the pin and bushes.

The 'book' states that the kingpins should be greased every 5,000 miles. From experience I would suggest every 3,000 miles to increase their life.


Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 10:45:26 +0100 (WET DST)
Subject: Re: Grease

> re the EP oil: Some grades of bronze don't like EP oil.

I have some of those PTFE bushes installed ,
I suppose an engine oil could be used , the point was that a more free flowing media could be used as the grease tends to migrate away from where it is needed and as there is no heat in the king pin area to melt the grease then it soon becomes dry ..

A good source of the large king pin sealing ring is a Volvo 940 turbo oil drain tube sealing ring
Part No. 1306264
i have yet to find the smaller one !

nick ..